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Aromatherapy
As Beauty Therapists we are all well aware how damaging the Australian sun can be on our skin and we are constantly reminded both through scientific reports and through the media how skin cancer is still on the increase. Thankfully, our training places a great emphasis on educating our clients on the importance of adequate protection, and most of our professional line brands do make available to us an array of skincare products with high SPF factors that enable us to protect the skins we are working on.
After a wonderful skin-rejuvenating treatment or a fabulous body wrap and spa treatment clients may well leave the spa or salon feeling quite safe and content that they have taken care of their skin and body. While this may be true in terms of restoring hydration levels and vitality to the skin, how safe they are on exiting the salon will greatly depend on the ingredients used within their treatment.
I am often left pondering as to how much thought is given by therapists when a client leaves the salon after a waxing treatment, body exfoliation or even a massage and the medians that are left on the skin.
Common sense tells us that the removal of the dead cells from the body will accelerate the burning factor at least twofold. As for the moisturising lotions and oils applied after the treatment, these could also be photo-sensitising to our client's skin. Another point to consider is where is the client going after the treatment? Is there any thought of the fact that the client may be joining a friend for lunch at an outdoor café or restaurant without any real protection from the sun's rays?
Sunlight is of great importance to our health, particularly because the skin manufactures vitamin D during sun exposure, and vitamin D offers great benefits. Vitamin D has functions in relation to maintaining calcium and supporting healthy bones and there is now new research evidence suggesting that this vitamin supports cell proliferation and cell-life maturation.
THE HAZARDS
Recent studies have proven that the sun has become more hazardous to our wellbeing due to the breakdown in the ozone layer, therefore caution and protection should always be taken.
As therapists, we are also aware that the pigmentation cells in the skin are produced by melanin, which is also stimulated by the sun. Therefore products that stimulate tanning can also accelerate pigmentation.
SAFEGUARDS
Within the realm of our profession there is much protection that we can offer our clients other than the appropriate recommendation of high SPF Sunscreens to protect the skin against the sun. Replenishing and supporting the skin's hydration should be achieved at all levels of our treatments, both for the face, as well as the body. Particularly for summer months it is vital that we utilise carrier oils with high emollient and hydrating factors that can protect the skin and give it greater flexibility and resilience from the onslaught of sun, high temperatures and wind.
When selecting your carrier oils during a face or body massage, a product that provides high emollient properties to the skin should be a priority.
Understanding and selecting an appropriate carrier oil offers you a guaranteed solution and there are many to choose from that have a proven history for their effectiveness going back to antiquity. A good, cold-pressed carrier oil offers not only excellent hydrating and nourishing properties, but also many valuable nutrients essential for the skin elasticity and turgor.
Most orthodox texts state that carrier oil will not penetrate the skin. This still holds true to a degree. However, carrier oils can provide excellent vehicles through which essential oils can penetrate the skin and achieve benefits even to the dermal layer. At the same time they can achieve greater protection against skin dehydration and water loss, as well as protecting the skin against reactions to external environmental irritants. Below is some valuable information on the most common base or carrier oils that should be used in a spa or beauty salon. A more comprehensive list of these oils will be covered on a forthcoming article.
ALMOND OIL
Prunus Amygdalis Var Dulcis (sweet): This carrier oil is extracted from the almond itself, it is rich in essential fatty acids that play a critical role in skin health. Total saturated Acids are 8.0%, Mono-unsaturated Acids 67.0% and Poly-unsaturated Acids 25%. Almond oil is fantastic for cosmetics such as moisturising and emollient hand creams, massage oils and night creams, etc. The cold-pressed oil also contains vitamin A, B1, B2, and B6.
AVOCADO OIL
Persia Americana Miller: This oil is obtained from the oily flesh of the avocado fruit, seen as bright green due to its chlorophyll content. Tt has oil has great softening and protective properties for the skin. It also promotes cell regeneration and is great for dry skin after sunburn and for this reason you should look for it for an effective after sun care product. This oil contains vitamins A, B and D and is rich in lecithin. You should prefer the cold-pressed variety, which has a dark green colour, rather than the refined variety that is a lighter yellow colour. Despite its viscosity, avocado oil has a wonderful ability to penetrate the upper layers of the skin, releasing its nutritive properties. Total Saturated Acids are between 16-20%, Mono-unsaturated Acids 60-70 % and Poly-unsaturated Acids equals 12-18%.
CANOLA ALSO KNOWN AS RAPESEED OIL rassica Napus
Canola is a hybrid of the rapeseed and is a golden yellow oil with a high mono-unsaturated content and rich in plant sterols. Total Saturated Acids are just 6%, Mono-saturated Acids is 52% and Poly-unsaturated Acids is 32%. The theory is that this oil is excellent for regulating epidermal skin behaviour. Used in many cosmetic products, but you should particularly look for it in products formulated for the eye area because it is a light oil. Excellent also for body massages.
CARROT OIL
Daucus Carota: This oil is orange yellow in colour, with a high vitamin A content, which is great for dry skin and sebaceous glands atrophy. It is also a great free radical blocker, and for this reason is a great ingredient for ageing skin. Use Carrot oil to fortify other carrier oils by increasing their vitamin A content.
JOJOBA OIL
Simmondisa Chinensis: This is a wonderful oil with excellent anti-ageing properties and used extensively in both creams and lipsticks. Jojoba oil has a semi-wax consistency and contains triglycerides with a combination of esters and fatty alcohols. It is very emollient, softening and soothing and is often used in baby products. Jojoba oil is also an excellent carrier of essential oils for effective penetration.
There are so many wonderful qualities in carrier oils that could be very useful to the spa and beauty therapist, but we must remember that as they lay on the epidermis, and especially when combined with essential oils, they do have the potential for photo-sensitivity. This could accelerate the burning of the skin.
As we know, essential oils with their smaller molecular structure are able to enter the skin through both the hair follicle and the pores. There are several citrus oils that provide excellent skin benefits, not to mention cellulite and other conditions of fluid retention. However, with summer coming on let us look at the most photo-toxic essential oils that we must guard against or use with caution in smaller percentages:
BERGAMOT
Citrus Bergamia: This essential oil has been used in many suntan products to increase the tanning activity. Caution must be taken, however, as there is a particular chemical constituent, Bergaptene, which has been found to be phototoxic to the skin. Although it will accelerate a tan, it will also photosensitise the skin towards burning. Useful particularly for psoriasis, acne, oily and seborrhoea of the skin and scalp. When using this oil recommend your client to stay completely out of the sun for at least eight hours and use a total sunscreen.
LEMON
Citrus Limonum: An oil that has great astringent effects on oily skin, as well as being excellent for broken capillaries but once again a phototoxic oil so therefore avoid sun exposure after use. As a rule, lemon oil cannot be used in high doses, as it is also derma-caustic and will burn the skin if large amounts are used. Use with a great deal of caution.
ANGELICA ROOT
Angelica Archangelica: This oil has a great calming action on the skin, but once again, has photo-toxic properties with the potential of easy burning after its use.
SWEET ORANGE
Cirus Cinesis: Fantastic for soothing dry, irritated and acne-prone skin and also a very uplifting oil for depression, but sadly, phototoxic as are most citrus oils.
LIME
Citrus Medica: Such a wonderful astringent and toning oil, much milder than lemon on the skin and therefore the preferred choice for a sensitive skin, however, once again, a phototoxic oil
that should be used with caution during sun exposure.
These are just a few of the essential oils used in both spa and beauty salons that can accelerate tanning but also have the potential to stimulate melanin in the skin and cause burning or pigmentation.
For this reason they must be used sparingly and always followed by a total sunblock. If the client is prone to pigmentation they should be totally avoided, particularly during the summer months.
Deby Atterby is a qualified aromatherapist and lecturer and is highly committed to the study of the science of essential oils and their therapeutic benefits. If you have any questions you wish to ask Deby regarding the use of essential oils you can forward your questions to
APAA Aromatherapy,
PO Box 96 Robina Q 4226
or phone Deby on 0413 877 185.