A MEMBER EVENTS &
SEMINARS COLLEGES & TRAINING APAA AWARDS ACCREDITED SALONS HEALTH & BEAUTY FACTS IMPORTANT LINKS
Beauty Facts
AHA : Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is the most frequently used of all the exfoliative acids. Glycolic acid (GA) belongs to a chemical group termed Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA). You may have heard of others from this group, such as Lactic Acid, Malic Acid and such. Citric acid is commonly thought of as an AHA, yet is in fact a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA). There are many different types of Hydroxy Acid groups.
The Naming Game
The marketing people have come up with a host of names for these products so they do not need to use the word acid, which may be a little too much for some to have on the skin.
Whatever it is termed, it is an acid, which is why it is used so much.
GA is used so frequently as it has the smallest molecular structure, which allows for easier penetration of the dead surface cells of the skin.
It is used as a chemical exfoliation to get rid of the build up of dead skin cells, which make the skin surface appear blotchy and uneven.
GA in its natural state comes from sugar cane, yet don't be thinking someone is in Queensland wringing sugar cane for its GA. All is chemically synthesised in a laboratory. This is good as it gives a more reliable, constant standard of ingredient, that is not dependant on the growing conditions of the sugar cane.
How does it work ?
Think of the outer skin surface as a brick wall. The bricks are the individual skin cells, while the concrete holding the bricks together is made up of an amazing array of different chemical properties.
If we want to break down the brick wall we need to break the concrete that holds the bricks together.
The action of Hydroxy Acids does this for us – it brakes down the chemical bonds that hold the individual cells together. It has no effect on the actual skin cells. As the cells now are freed from the ?holding? bonds, they fall away from the skin surface, leaving a nice even surface.
Degree of action
How effective the product is on the skin is reliant on many factors, although can be simplified into three prime variables.
The percentage of acid used. The pH (potential hydrogen), of the acid and the contact time of the acid on the skin.
The first two are controlled in the manufacturing process, while the manufacturer recommends the contact time, for that product.
Generally there are two main products groups: 1. the leave on and 2. the removal types.
As the name suggests, you can have hydroxy acids that stay on the skin, perhaps in a moisturiser, while others, which are much stronger, have a short contact time with the skin, need to be removed. Usually this is simply by adding water to neutralise the acid, thereby stopping it from further action.
For a while it was thought that the higher the percentage of free acid in the product, plus the lower the pH, the greater the effect in a ?peel?. This is no longer the case, for much can be done with the more gentler products that are shown to be effective, without the stinging and burning sensations.
Having said that, minor sensations are frequently felt if you are using Hydroxy Acids for the first time (or indeed if you are over using them.)
Do follow the directions and recommendations of your skin care professional: more is not better in this case.
This information sheet is for general information only.
It is in no way to be used as prescriptive or guideline of product or ingredient use.
In providing this information, APAA is not, nor can be, held responsible for any outcome of use of any of the Hydroxy Acids.
Advice from a trained skin care professional must be sought and followed in the use of any product.
.