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How Skin Care Treatments Work
The Technology of Exfoliants and their effectiveness on Skin
It is important to note that a qualified aesthetician accesses products that are of a stronger formulation than products sold over the counter. To do so she must undertake extra training to ensure that she has a thorough comprehension of the formulas she is using and is adequately qualified to correctly use these formulas knowing full well the effect she can expect from them for the skin type she is treating. This article deals with some of these products.
In terms of treatments, part of the key roll of an aesthetician is dealing with damage control of skin that has been inflected by sun, pollution, air-conditioning and other environmental and chemical factors. In doing so hydration is important of course, yet it is not the first consideration. Exfoliation is needed to rid the surface of as much damage as possible and to regulate the growth cycle of the well renewal process, which has been disrupted due to sun damage.
There are many methods available to increase the natural exfoliation process, and each modality really depends on the amount of exfoliation required and the client's skin condition. One must also be aware of the many indications that may preclude some tolerance, prior exfoliative history, sensitivity reactions are among a variety of concerns you must consider in your choice of method.
Let's look at two chemicals that are frequently used in the salon for exfoliation, yet still are poorly understood and utilised.
RETINOIDS
Retinoids are a group of individual substances that we commonly know as Vitamin A. various forms have been used in medicine for many years, although it was not until the early 1970's that a prescriptive product for acne was used 'off'-label' due to one of its side effects. Patients using Tretinoin (Retin-A) noticed their skin condition became smoother and more even. Thus began the boom in sales of this drug to 'help improve and diminish the visible signs of ageing'.
The aesthetic profession in America was upset that they were losing clients to this prescriptive drug and asked their cosmetic chemists to devise something that could be used in the salon. With a little change in the chemical structure and a lot of very carefully worded claims, introduction of 'cosmeceutical' array of products came into being. These products walk a fine line between drug and cosmetic.
All retinoids start with the same basic structure, chemically speaking. They all have a distinctive yellow colour and are lipophilic (oil soluble). It is this affinity to the skin lipids that allow absorption into the epidermis.
Some retinoids have a hydroxyl group (OH) and become an alcohol, while others with an aldehyde group (CH) have different properties. Retinoids with a carboxyl group (COOH) become acids. Some of these acids are then neutralised with an organic base to form a new compound termed as ester. I mention all this to show that all Vitamin A is not equal and produce different affects on the skin.
Retinyl palmitate (a retinyl ester) is probably the most used in the cosmetic industry although it is one of the least effective. It is however, easy to work with, stable, stores well and does not go rancid. Other est are labelled as retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate. Although the esters are less aggressive than the retinoid acids, they are very effective at causing exfoliation.
I believe we will see a new wave of products using retinoid complexes (a mixture of the different groupings) that will work synergistically with each other, yet also with other ingredients such as AHAs. Some of us have been using these two ingredients separately, now we will be suing them together.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS
Been around for ever and nothing new here - or is there?
AHAs have been the workhorse of exfoliators in the beauty industry for many years, taking over from the proteolytic enzymes (which by the way are still very effective exfoliatives) and it seems difficult to find a product that does not use it. OK, I know there are lots f them, yet you know what I mean.
There is however a lot of mis-information that surrounds this group of acids. AHAs are a group of different acids with various molecular structure and therefore different effects of the skin, although all are exfoliative. The smaller the molecular weight the better the penetration into the epidermis. This can be good or bad, depending on what we are dealing with.
All AHA's are termed organic acids, as they have a carboxylic group (-COCH) and are a hydroxyl group (-OH) at the carbon link next to the acid group. This is in fact the second carbon, not the first as most think; even if we call it the alpha (first) position.... ( go figure that one!)
Glycolic acid CH2OH-COOH Lactic acid CH3-CHOH-COOH
Beta Hydroxy Acids have their hydroxyl group on the second carbon link next to the acid group (yes, this actually is the third carbon, even if we call it the second). An example of this would look like CH2OH2-OH2-COOH. Higher molecular weight that does not penetrate as quickly as the AHAs. With the knowledge we have today, this in most cases, is the preferable way to go.
The hydroxyl acids are very effective in combating the loss of skin smoothness and elasticity associated with ageing. They work by dissolving the covering of the ionic bonds between the individual cells. Or in language I like - they work by weakening the corneodesosin around the filaments of the desmosomes - the so called ionic bonds.
They reduce the keratinocyte cohesion thereby inducing exfoliation, making the Stratum Corneum thinner, which in turn makes it more pliable and compact. The lower percentage AHAs only work on the corneum, not the epidermis. This can be done with the higher concentrations which is not such a good idea as epidermolysis is a frequent occurrence (separation of the entire epidermis from the dermis).
Studies have shown that the epidermis actually thickens as the corneum thins, even the dermis under goes changes with constant use.
Having a product containing AHAs is not a guarantee that it will be effective, as much chemistry comes into play and unless you are a cosmetic chemist and can test the product yourself, then you have to rely on the honesty and integrity of the company you are dealing with.
One of the BHA's, Salicilic acid, as an exfoliant, has been under-utilised by the Beauty Industry. I have used this substance frequently in America and find it very effective. I know there will be a new formulation here soon in Australia after successful trials in the US from the work of Dr Albert Kligman.
The evolution of exfoliation will continue with new ingredients, new products, new machinery, the basics however still remain:
* ? know the product/machine well
* know your client's skin well
* always match the right method to the right condition
This article was written by Terry Everitt, established internationally as an educator in advanced subject matters within the aesthetic field. Terry brings a wealth of knowledge, not only in aesthetic care, but also to the technical management of training development.
As a consultant to industry, he already is involved as a member of the Curriculum Assessment Panel and in the area of Auditing of Recognised Training Organisations within the Australian National Training Framework.
Terry can be contacted at Aesthetic Educators on (02) 93269191